Türkiye - East Thrace

 After Bulgaria we now arrive in Turkey or the official name the Republic of Türkiye.  I have never been to Turkey as of yet, so have only the usual stereotypes to offer: the gateway to Asia, the country of whirling Dervishes, oriental bazaars, Turkish delight and kebabs.  Whilst I have never been, it's probably the first culture different from mine that I had encountered as a kid growing up in Germany, which has a large Turkish diaspora. One day I'll go for myself to see, in the meantime I'll just travel in mind through the medium of music.

We start our virtual journey in East Thrace, the European part of Turkey, which has been a region of conflict between the Ottomans, Bulgarians and Byzantines over the centuries.  Our first stop is the small city of Kirklareli, where qanun player and composer Göksel Baktagir was born in 1966.  The qanun is a zither-like string instrument that is commonly played solo or as part of an ensemble throughout the Middle East.  Here's a short piece from his 2008 album Hayal Gibi 3 (Like a Dream), called Huzur, with some dramatic landscape shots:

Singer/songwriter Candan Erçetin was born in 1963 a bit south in the city of Lüleburgaz.  She is mostly known for her pop music, but as she is of Macedonian descent, she mixes in Balkan elements into her music, singing in Turkish, French and Greek.  She represented Turkey at the 1986 Eurovision Song Contest, but appears by all accounts a well balanced person with multiple interests.  Here is a song from her 1999 album Elbette called Annem:

Singer Hatice Yıldız Levent, better known by her stage name of Muazzaez Ersoy was born in 1958 in the town of Uzunköprü. She sings classic Turkish / Arabesque songs giving her the nickname of Nostalgia Queen in Turkey.  Here's a song from her 2016 album Özel Koleksiyon 2 called Dumanlı Dumanlı:

Roma clarinettist Selim Sesler was born in 1957 in the town of Keşan near Edirne, but sadly died of heart disease in 2014.  He came from a long line of professional musicians who originated from Greece, but were moved in 1923 in the population exchange between the 2 countries.  He was performing at Gypsy weddings from the age of 14, but his fame originally started outside his native country, touring internationally with Canadian musician Brenna MacKimmon.  Here is a song from his 2006 album Oğlan Bizim Kız Bizim (Anatolian Wedding) called Şu Köyceğiz Yolları:

Cem Karaca (1945- 2004) was born in Bakırköy on the European side of Istanbul province.  He was a leading influence in the Anatolian Rock scene, being a member of numerous bands during the 70's, as well as recording under his own name.  During a time of great political turbulence, he was accused of inciting a revolution with his song lyrics by the government.  As a result he went into exile in West Germany, where he stayed until 1987, when an amnesty was given to him.  Anatolian rock and psychedelia have had a bit of a renaissance in recent years and many of Karaca's recordings have been re-released, such as the 2023 compilation by German based label Anadolu.  Here is song featured on this album called  Tamirci Çıragı, about a humble car mechanic falling in love with a client, but being told to accept his working class status by his boss.

That's it from the European side of Turkey, next we are heading into the bustling metropolis that is Istanbul, where we'll spending some time.  In the meantime you can follow my virtual journey on my Tripline map.

Bulgaria - Plovdiv & the Rest

Plovdiv Mosque from a nearby roof terrace

Plovdiv old town

Now, unlike Sofia, I really did like Bulgaria's second city Plovdiv.  It has an ancient history with Roman ruins visible in various parts of the city and is reputedly one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe dating back some 7000 years.  It now has a vibrant student scene, famed for great food and a lively nightlife.  On one occasion we were eating in a restaurant when we were unexpectedly treated to this dance performance:

Singer and choir master Eugenia Georgieva is a native of Plovdiv, but now resides in London, where she leads a Bulgarian choir at University College London.  She performs both solo as well as part of various ensembles, delving mostly into traditional material from the Rila Mountains, but also dabbling with electronic music.  Here is a track from her 2018 solo album Po Drum Mome / A Girl on the Road called Brayne le Ivane / Hey, Brother Ivan:

One of the ensembles Eugenia is part of is the Perunika Trio, a traditional a'capella group together with Victoria Evstatieva and Victoria Mancheva.  Here is a short song called Pripade temna mugla from their 2008 debut album Introducing Perunika Trio:

Singer Neli Andreeva was born in the town of Asenovgrad, but grew up in the Rhodope Mountains, where she began singing traditional songs from an early age with her grandmother.  She is also choir master of the Philip Kutev Folklore Ensemble, more of which below.  Here is a song called Da Znaesh Maicho featuring her as lead singer together with the Nusha Choir and Croatian pianist Zvjezdan Ružić, which features on their 2023 album Dandelion:

Folk singer Valya Balkanska, born 1942 in Arda in the southern Rhodope Mountains near the Greek border, has literally achieved interstellar fame.  Her song Iziel ye Delyo Haydutin was included on a music recording that was on the NASA spacecrafts Voyager I and II that were launched in 1977 to explore space beyond our solar system.  I wonder what aliens made of this, but it it is indeed a beautiful piece of music which was originally recorded on vinyl in 1968.  Here is the song:

Clarinet player and band leader Ivo Papazov was born in Kardzhali in the eastern Rhodpe Mountains.  He started playing in public from the age of 12 at Gypsy weddings and later founded his own wedding band, pioneering the style of Balkan Gypsy wedding music fusing Balkan music with elements of funk, rock and jazz, often played at breakneck speed.  He collected numerous awards including the BBC Radio 3 World Music Award in 2005.  Try out his 2007 Best of album for some more, but here is an historic live performance on Nightmusic.  Try not to wriggle around manically...

Next we are heading north into the Rose Valley, which provides a large percentage of the worlds rose oil.  During our time in Bulgaria we based ourselves in the small village of Rozovets.

For much of the year it's a quiet place, but at the end of the summer everybody who has moved away over the years comes back for a grand summer party with plenty of food, music, dancing and fireworks.  The band starts playing around 5 pm and goes on non-stop - and I mean non-stop, no breaks between songs or tunes, just individual musicians having a wee break now and then - until 1 am.  Here's a wee flavour of it all:

Composer and arranger Filip Kutev (or Philip Koutev) was born in Aytos near the Black Sea coast in 1903 and died in 1982, but his name lives on in the Bulgarian National Folklore Ensemble Philip Kutev, which he founded together with his wife Maria in 1951.  The ensemble was the first to bring traditional Bulgarian music onto the stage and to a wider audience.  It is now led by his daughter Elena Kuteva.  Below a sampler of their varied activities.  For more check out their 2006 self-titled album. 

That's it from Bulgaria, next we are heading to Turkey.  In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual travels on my Tripline map.

Bulgaria - The Rhodope Mountains

 

Sign post in Batak in the Rhodope Mountains

Lake Batak in the Rhodope Mountains

The Rhodope Mountains in the south of Bulgaria are a gentle mountain range of spectacular natural beauty and biodiversity and it's picturesque mountain villages are a hotbed of ancient culture and song.  

We begin in the village of Kostandovo, where apparently you just have to nudge the inhabitants to make them sing.  The Boyana Folk Ensemble in the village was established some 50 years ago and is still going strong with traditional song and dance performances.  I was lucky enough to witness one of their full-length performances at the European Permaculture Convergence in the Rhodope Mountains in 2014.  Here is an extract of their performance:

And here an official video of theirs at the Dorkovo Folk Festival in 2012:

Bulgarian Jazz guitarist Hristo Vitchev resides in California these days, I'm not sure where in Bulgaria he is from.  In 2013 he collaborated with fellow Bulgarian clarinet player Liubomir Krastev to produce an album of jazz inspired by Bulgarian folk called Rhodopa, both after the mountains and a mythical Thracian queen.  Vitchev is also an impressionist painter and he painted his own album cover.  Here is the opening track to the album Devoiko Mari Hubava (Beautiful Young Lady):

Fusion duo Flying Nomads consist of Daniel on Bulgarian tambura and Kristina on Daf (Iranian frame drum).  Their sounds are mostly inspired by the nature around them in the Rhodope Mountains, even recording outdoors, as well as by traditional Bulgarian and world music influences.  Here is a song from their 2021 EP Synthesis called Omen, which is said to represent autumn:

Ethno-ambient band Kayno Yesno Slonce are actually based in Sofia, but claim their music is strongly influenced by the folklore of the Rhodope Mountains.  In fact the name of the band derrives from a line of a traditional song from the region, meaning like a bright shining sun.  They do use a lot of traditional instruments such as the duduk, Bulgarian bagpipes, frame drums and Bulgarian tambura, although they give their music very much a modern touch, sounding almost electronic, even though it's all acoustic.  Here is the opening track of their 2017 album Mare Verborum called THALASSA:

Trio Ravnogor are a Bulgarian/Hungarian trio who met in the Rhodope village after which they named themselves.  Nowadays they seem to be based in Sweden though.  They consist of Nina Grantchrova on vocals, darburka and gardon, Mihail Dinchev on Bulgarian tambura, vocals and percussion and Hungarian György Stuber on vocals, duduche flute and hurdy-gurdy.  They call their style Rhodopian Mountain Blues.  Here is the title track to their 2022 album Bergsblått:

That's it from the Rhodope Mountains, next we're heading to Plovdiv and the rest of Bulgaria.  In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual journey on my Tripline map.

Bulgaria - The Southwest

Dragalevski Monastery on the southern outskirts of Sofia near the village of Bistritsa

 On our way out of Sofia we have to make a quick stop in the village of Bistritsa, where the Bistritsa Babi, The Granny of Bistritsa, were formed in 1939.  They are an all female choir and dance troupe performing very traditional polyphonic singing and rituals from the Shopluk region.  They have even been declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.  Here is a a short explanatory video:

Here is a live performance in 2016

For more, check out their 2010 album Authentic Bulgarian Folk Songs.

Next we are heading south to the spectacular Rila Monastery in the Rila mountains.

Photo credit: By Raggatt2000 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=29520642

This is obviously the inspiration for instrumental folk band Rila, although I don't know much else about them.  Theirs is music that you would hear at a village fete in Bulgaria.  Here's a track from their 2014 album Bolgárkert entitled Kraidounavska ruchenista:

On the foothills of the Rila Mountains lies the city of Blagoevgrad, which is home to the American University of Bulgaria.  Here's me admiring a sculpture on the main square back in 2012.

This is where folk singer Iliya Arginov (1931-2012) spent most of his career, although he was born further south in Sandanski.  Either way, both places are near the North Macedonian border and his songs large repertoire consists mostly  of Macedonian folk songs.  His son Dimitar went on to a career as a lead singer in a metal band apparently.  Anyway, Iliya recorded more than 200 songs and released 7 albums during his life.  Here is just a flavour of a live performance:

The Trio Bulgarka was a female vocal trio active between 1975 and 1999.  The 3 women actually came from different regions, but as one of them, Stoyanka Boneva, came from the Pirin Mountains, we'll make our next stop in Bansko, at the foothills of those mountains, famous for its sand rock formations and deeply flavoured Melnik wines.

The trio Bulgarka's glittering career included being part of the Mystere des Voix Bulgares and even recording with Kate Bush.  This is the story of the recording with Kate Bush:

Here is a live performance by the trio.  For more check out their 1989 Best of album:

That's it from Bulgaria's southwest, next we are heading into the beautiful Rhodope Mountains.  In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual ramblings on my Tripline map.

Bulgaria - Sofia

 Now, I'd be lying if I said I like Sofia as a city, but I have many memories from this place, many of them happy, some of them tinged with sadness.  My cousin Bart was cremated there by the whackiest funeral director you are ever likely to meet, I have made lasting friendships here, I saw Roger Waters perform a re-run of Pink Floyd's The Wall here, I had some great food and drink at a mafioso-run restaurant, became a well known regular at a rustic hotel.  I could fill a movie, or alternatively a beer-fuelled evening of story telling.  So let's explore some of the music from the capital of Bulgaria.

Alexander Nevski Cathedral, Sofia

 One of my first encounters with the music of Bulgaria was at a concert in 2004 of the Bulgarian Voices - Angelite, who were performing together with Mongolian outfit Huun Huur Tu at the Sconfinando world music festival in Sarzana, Italy.  The all female choir was one of the many off-springs from the old Bulgarian State Television Female Vocal Choir, which began back in 1952 and was later renamed as Le Mystere des Voix Bulgares.  They have developed their own style combining the distinctive Bulgarian slightly disconsonant (to western ears) harmonies and irregular 9/8 rhythms with other influences from around the world.  Here is a track from their 1987 album, Cathedral Concert, which was recorded live in the St. Petri Cathedral in Bremen, Germany.  The song is called Begala E Vena:

Also former members of Le Mystere des Voix Bulgares are the Eva Quartet, who came together in 1995, showcasing traditional Bulgarian folk songs.  Here the title song from their 2021 album Minka:

The Ravnec Folklore Band are a male ensemble from Sofia, who play traditional folk from across the country, but predominantly from the Rhodope Mountains.  They try to stay close to the original material using traditional instruments like Bulgarian bagpipes.  Here is a song from their 2017 album Na porti chuka i ruka called Goro le, goro, zelana:

Ethno-fusion band Oratnitza combine traditional Bulgarian singing with vibrant beats and dancefloor rhythms.  Although using acoustic instrumentation, they have an almost techno vibe to their music.  Here is a track from their 2018 album Alter Ethno entitled Pushka Pukna:

Ethno-Jazz band Outhentic were founded in 2012 in Sofia. They cleverly blend Bulgarian folk with jazz and improvisation, and even a touch of folk-rock.  The kaval / flute solo in the following live version of the song Roazoral Dedo almost has something of Jethro Tull's Ian Anderson.  It's from their 2019 album Transparent:

World fusion band Irfan were established in 2001 in Sofia.  They produce hypnotic, slightly New-Age melodies mixing electro-acoustic world fusion of music from the Balkans, the Orient and Medieval Europe, led by oud and haunting female voices.  Here is the title track from their 2015 album The Eternal Return:

Multi-instrumentalist Nikola Parov was born in Sofia in 1962 in Sofia, but moved to Budapest, Hungary at the age of 10.  There he founded the Balkan folk band Zsarátnok with a bunch of Hungarian musicians.  With this band he stayed close to Bulgarian traditions, but later collaborated with various Irish musicians including Davy Spillane.  Here is a track from their 1998 album The Balkan Move called Simplicity:

Pop/jazz singer and actor Milenita (born Milena Nikolova) was actually born in Havanna, Cuba in 1975, but returned to Sofia at the age of 14 via Madrid and Mexico City.  She later had spells Palma de Mallorca and Chicago, but is now firmly settled in Sofia.  So she is truly a citizen of the world, which shows in her various musical influences, singing in Bulgarian, Spanish and English.  Her music leans on contemporary jazz influences with a strong pop flavour.  She only ever released 2 albums, but has also written music for films and acted herself.  Here is the opening track to her 2010 album Gato called Cherni Kotaraci:

And finally a hip-hop ode to Milenita's home town Sofia-Grad:

That's it from Sofia, next we're heading into the southwest of Bulgaria.  In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual travels on my Tripline map.

Bulgaria The North

 

Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Now I spent quite a bit of time in Bulgaria about 10 years ago on various trips.  If ever you want to find out more about the country, I recommend you find 2 Bulgarians and go on a non-stop road trip across Europe.  You will be told about the Turkish 'Yoke', the period during which the territory was under Ottoman rule, Bulgarian yogurt (best made from goat's milk in the west of the country and far superior to Greek yogurt), the problem of the gypsies, shopska salad (far superior to Greek salad, how the Bulgarians invented wine, and how the Greeks generally have stolen the culture of the Thracians and claimed it as their own, etc... You'll also learn about the Bulgarian mafia and corruption and get to taste plenty of rakia, the moonshine plum brandy.  It goes without saying, that Bulgarian women are the most beautiful in the world.  

After just such a road trip, criss-crossing the country, finding the best wines the country has to offer, gate-crashing parties in small villages, in a car repair shop/turned tropical beach and an Irish pub in Blagoevgrad, I now consider myself an expert in all things Bulgarian.  Finally my most lasting connection to Bulgaria is that I bought myself a handmade Bulgarian tambura there from one of top makers of the instrument, which is now my preferred musical instrument.

We start this particular road trip in the north-east of the country in the small town of Isperih, where folk and jazz musician Theodosii Spassov was born in 1961.  His instrument of choice is the kaval, an 8-hole wooden shepherd's flute.  Spassov is a serial collaborator, having played with many greats of jazz and Bulgarian folklore as well Irish music and dance troupe Riverdance.  One of his collaborations was with all female Bulgarian choir Cosmic Voices, who were founded in 1994 in Sofia.  The resulting album, re-released in January this year, is called The Spirit of Bulgaria (originally released 2001), blending Bulgarian folk with jazz.  This a song from the album called Podnojie (At the Foot of the Mountain):

Next we are heading to the city of Lovech, where guitar maverick Ateshkhan Yuseinov was born.  He made a name for himself with his unique guitar playing style, combining fast Balkan rhythms with jazzy improvisations.  Here is a track from his 2019 album Strange Suit, where he collaborates with beat box world champion SkilleR aka Alexander Deyanov from Sofia.  The tune is called Fire Bees in a Box:

Next stop is the town of Belogradchik in north-western Bulgaria, mostly because it is one of the most stunning locations in Bulgaria.  The famous rocks of Belogradchik are an area of 90 square kilometres of red sandstone formations, that have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.  They have even built an impregnatable fortress into the rocks.

Near Belogradchik was also one of my gate crashing events mentioned above.  As we were eating in a country hotel, there was a birthday party going on, which we promptly joined.  As I was suffering from a cold at the time, I was supplied with gallons of hot rakia.  There was also some home-made music to entertain the guests.  Excuse the poor picture and sound quality:

And we'll leave it at that as we are going to the Capital Sofia next.  In the meantime you can follow my virtual ramblings on my Tripline map.
 

Romania - Bucharest

 After skirting around the capital on my last post, we are now heading straight into Bucharest and see what the city has to offer in terms of music.  I visited Bucharest for a couple of days back in 2014, here are a couple of photos from that trip:

View to the parliament building

The old town

One of my first encounters with the Gypsy music of Romania was the 1997 movie Gadjo Dilo (Crazy Stranger in the Romani language).  It's the story of a young, naïve and floppy-haired Frenchman, Stéphane, who travels to Romania looking for a Roma singer called Nora Luca, to whom his father used to listen to all the time before his death.  Armed with a tape recorder he ends up as a guest in a Gypsy village, not speaking any of the language and being viewed with suspicion by its inhabitants.  It then turns out that a young woman in the village called Sabina, played by actress, painter and musician Rona Hartner, speaks French, and after some initial hostility a love affair ensues.  The film deals with the continued prejudice against the Roma community, but also features a lot of Gypsy music performed by village musicians and enthusiastically supported by Rona Hartner.  If you haven't seen the movie I highly recommend it for an insight into Gypsy life and for the music.  Here is a scene from the movie of the song Tutti Frutti, the soundtrack has also been issued as a CD:

Rona Hartner was born in Bucharest in 1979, but sadly died recently after a battle with lung and brain cancer.  Apart from her acting and painting career she also recorded a lot of music, specialising in Gypsy music.  She lived the last couple of decades of her life in France.  Here is a live version of a song from her 2013 album Gypsy Therapy with DJ Tagada called Nationalité Vagabonde, a sentiment I can identify with:

RIP Rona Hartner.

The Shukar Collective are an Ursari Roma band that fuses traditional Gypsy music with electronica.  They produce sounds by tapping spoons and other domestic objects combined with an analogue synthesizer.  Here is a song from their 2005 album Urban Gypsy called Bar Boot:

The Mahala Rai Banda is a Roma brass band founded in 2004 in Bucharest by violinist and composer Aurel Ionita, who is related to several members of Taraf de Haidouks.  They blend traditional wedding music with Balkan Beats.  It makes for great party music.  Here is a song from their 2019 album Ghetto Blasters called Ding Deng Dong.  The album won the Songlines 2009 Best Album Award:

Bucharest band Balkan Taksim combine Balkan Psych with Subterranean bass and low-fi synth electronica, blending old with new and analog with digital.  Here's a song called Anadolka from their 2021 EP Žali Zare:

That wraps up our tour of Romania, next stop is Bulgaria.  In the meantime you can follow my virtual musical travels on my Tripline map.