Bulgaria - The Rhodope Mountains

 

Sign post in Batak in the Rhodope Mountains

Lake Batak in the Rhodope Mountains

The Rhodope Mountains in the south of Bulgaria are a gentle mountain range of spectacular natural beauty and biodiversity and it's picturesque mountain villages are a hotbed of ancient culture and song.  

We begin in the village of Kostandovo, where apparently you just have to nudge the inhabitants to make them sing.  The Boyana Folk Ensemble in the village was established some 50 years ago and is still going strong with traditional song and dance performances.  I was lucky enough to witness one of their full-length performances at the European Permaculture Convergence in the Rhodope Mountains in 2014.  Here is an extract of their performance:

And here an official video of theirs at the Dorkovo Folk Festival in 2012:

Bulgarian Jazz guitarist Hristo Vitchev resides in California these days, I'm not sure where in Bulgaria he is from.  In 2013 he collaborated with fellow Bulgarian clarinet player Liubomir Krastev to produce an album of jazz inspired by Bulgarian folk called Rhodopa, both after the mountains and a mythical Thracian queen.  Vitchev is also an impressionist painter and he painted his own album cover.  Here is the opening track to the album Devoiko Mari Hubava (Beautiful Young Lady):

Fusion duo Flying Nomads consist of Daniel on Bulgarian tambura and Kristina on Daf (Iranian frame drum).  Their sounds are mostly inspired by the nature around them in the Rhodope Mountains, even recording outdoors, as well as by traditional Bulgarian and world music influences.  Here is a song from their 2021 EP Synthesis called Omen, which is said to represent autumn:

Ethno-ambient band Kayno Yesno Slonce are actually based in Sofia, but claim their music is strongly influenced by the folklore of the Rhodope Mountains.  In fact the name of the band derrives from a line of a traditional song from the region, meaning like a bright shining sun.  They do use a lot of traditional instruments such as the duduk, Bulgarian bagpipes, frame drums and Bulgarian tambura, although they give their music very much a modern touch, sounding almost electronic, even though it's all acoustic.  Here is the opening track of their 2017 album Mare Verborum called THALASSA:

Trio Ravnogor are a Bulgarian/Hungarian trio who met in the Rhodope village after which they named themselves.  Nowadays they seem to be based in Sweden though.  They consist of Nina Grantchrova on vocals, darburka and gardon, Mihail Dinchev on Bulgarian tambura, vocals and percussion and Hungarian György Stuber on vocals, duduche flute and hurdy-gurdy.  They call their style Rhodopian Mountain Blues.  Here is the title track to their 2022 album Bergsblått:

That's it from the Rhodope Mountains, next we're heading to Plovdiv and the rest of Bulgaria.  In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual journey on my Tripline map.

Bulgaria - The Southwest

Dragalevski Monastery on the southern outskirts of Sofia near the village of Bistritsa

 On our way out of Sofia we have to make a quick stop in the village of Bistritsa, where the Bistritsa Babi, The Granny of Bistritsa, were formed in 1939.  They are an all female choir and dance troupe performing very traditional polyphonic singing and rituals from the Shopluk region.  They have even been declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.  Here is a a short explanatory video:

Here is a live performance in 2016

For more, check out their 2010 album Authentic Bulgarian Folk Songs.

Next we are heading south to the spectacular Rila Monastery in the Rila mountains.

Photo credit: By Raggatt2000 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=29520642

This is obviously the inspiration for instrumental folk band Rila, although I don't know much else about them.  Theirs is music that you would hear at a village fete in Bulgaria.  Here's a track from their 2014 album Bolgárkert entitled Kraidounavska ruchenista:

On the foothills of the Rila Mountains lies the city of Blagoevgrad, which is home to the American University of Bulgaria.  Here's me admiring a sculpture on the main square back in 2012.

This is where folk singer Iliya Arginov (1931-2012) spent most of his career, although he was born further south in Sandanski.  Either way, both places are near the North Macedonian border and his songs large repertoire consists mostly  of Macedonian folk songs.  His son Dimitar went on to a career as a lead singer in a metal band apparently.  Anyway, Iliya recorded more than 200 songs and released 7 albums during his life.  Here is just a flavour of a live performance:

The Trio Bulgarka was a female vocal trio active between 1975 and 1999.  The 3 women actually came from different regions, but as one of them, Stoyanka Boneva, came from the Pirin Mountains, we'll make our next stop in Bansko, at the foothills of those mountains, famous for its sand rock formations and deeply flavoured Melnik wines.

The trio Bulgarka's glittering career included being part of the Mystere des Voix Bulgares and even recording with Kate Bush.  This is the story of the recording with Kate Bush:

Here is a live performance by the trio.  For more check out their 1989 Best of album:

That's it from Bulgaria's southwest, next we are heading into the beautiful Rhodope Mountains.  In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual ramblings on my Tripline map.

Bulgaria - Sofia

 Now, I'd be lying if I said I like Sofia as a city, but I have many memories from this place, many of them happy, some of them tinged with sadness.  My cousin Bart was cremated there by the whackiest funeral director you are ever likely to meet, I have made lasting friendships here, I saw Roger Waters perform a re-run of Pink Floyd's The Wall here, I had some great food and drink at a mafioso-run restaurant, became a well known regular at a rustic hotel.  I could fill a movie, or alternatively a beer-fuelled evening of story telling.  So let's explore some of the music from the capital of Bulgaria.

Alexander Nevski Cathedral, Sofia

 One of my first encounters with the music of Bulgaria was at a concert in 2004 of the Bulgarian Voices - Angelite, who were performing together with Mongolian outfit Huun Huur Tu at the Sconfinando world music festival in Sarzana, Italy.  The all female choir was one of the many off-springs from the old Bulgarian State Television Female Vocal Choir, which began back in 1952 and was later renamed as Le Mystere des Voix Bulgares.  They have developed their own style combining the distinctive Bulgarian slightly disconsonant (to western ears) harmonies and irregular 9/8 rhythms with other influences from around the world.  Here is a track from their 1987 album, Cathedral Concert, which was recorded live in the St. Petri Cathedral in Bremen, Germany.  The song is called Begala E Vena:

Also former members of Le Mystere des Voix Bulgares are the Eva Quartet, who came together in 1995, showcasing traditional Bulgarian folk songs.  Here the title song from their 2021 album Minka:

The Ravnec Folklore Band are a male ensemble from Sofia, who play traditional folk from across the country, but predominantly from the Rhodope Mountains.  They try to stay close to the original material using traditional instruments like Bulgarian bagpipes.  Here is a song from their 2017 album Na porti chuka i ruka called Goro le, goro, zelana:

Ethno-fusion band Oratnitza combine traditional Bulgarian singing with vibrant beats and dancefloor rhythms.  Although using acoustic instrumentation, they have an almost techno vibe to their music.  Here is a track from their 2018 album Alter Ethno entitled Pushka Pukna:

Ethno-Jazz band Outhentic were founded in 2012 in Sofia. They cleverly blend Bulgarian folk with jazz and improvisation, and even a touch of folk-rock.  The kaval / flute solo in the following live version of the song Roazoral Dedo almost has something of Jethro Tull's Ian Anderson.  It's from their 2019 album Transparent:

World fusion band Irfan were established in 2001 in Sofia.  They produce hypnotic, slightly New-Age melodies mixing electro-acoustic world fusion of music from the Balkans, the Orient and Medieval Europe, led by oud and haunting female voices.  Here is the title track from their 2015 album The Eternal Return:

Multi-instrumentalist Nikola Parov was born in Sofia in 1962 in Sofia, but moved to Budapest, Hungary at the age of 10.  There he founded the Balkan folk band Zsarátnok with a bunch of Hungarian musicians.  With this band he stayed close to Bulgarian traditions, but later collaborated with various Irish musicians including Davy Spillane.  Here is a track from their 1998 album The Balkan Move called Simplicity:

Pop/jazz singer and actor Milenita (born Milena Nikolova) was actually born in Havanna, Cuba in 1975, but returned to Sofia at the age of 14 via Madrid and Mexico City.  She later had spells Palma de Mallorca and Chicago, but is now firmly settled in Sofia.  So she is truly a citizen of the world, which shows in her various musical influences, singing in Bulgarian, Spanish and English.  Her music leans on contemporary jazz influences with a strong pop flavour.  She only ever released 2 albums, but has also written music for films and acted herself.  Here is the opening track to her 2010 album Gato called Cherni Kotaraci:

And finally a hip-hop ode to Milenita's home town Sofia-Grad:

That's it from Sofia, next we're heading into the southwest of Bulgaria.  In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual travels on my Tripline map.

Bulgaria The North

 

Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Now I spent quite a bit of time in Bulgaria about 10 years ago on various trips.  If ever you want to find out more about the country, I recommend you find 2 Bulgarians and go on a non-stop road trip across Europe.  You will be told about the Turkish 'Yoke', the period during which the territory was under Ottoman rule, Bulgarian yogurt (best made from goat's milk in the west of the country and far superior to Greek yogurt), the problem of the gypsies, shopska salad (far superior to Greek salad, how the Bulgarians invented wine, and how the Greeks generally have stolen the culture of the Thracians and claimed it as their own, etc... You'll also learn about the Bulgarian mafia and corruption and get to taste plenty of rakia, the moonshine plum brandy.  It goes without saying, that Bulgarian women are the most beautiful in the world.  

After just such a road trip, criss-crossing the country, finding the best wines the country has to offer, gate-crashing parties in small villages, in a car repair shop/turned tropical beach and an Irish pub in Blagoevgrad, I now consider myself an expert in all things Bulgarian.  Finally my most lasting connection to Bulgaria is that I bought myself a handmade Bulgarian tambura there from one of top makers of the instrument, which is now my preferred musical instrument.

We start this particular road trip in the north-east of the country in the small town of Isperih, where folk and jazz musician Theodosii Spassov was born in 1961.  His instrument of choice is the kaval, an 8-hole wooden shepherd's flute.  Spassov is a serial collaborator, having played with many greats of jazz and Bulgarian folklore as well Irish music and dance troupe Riverdance.  One of his collaborations was with all female Bulgarian choir Cosmic Voices, who were founded in 1994 in Sofia.  The resulting album, re-released in January this year, is called The Spirit of Bulgaria (originally released 2001), blending Bulgarian folk with jazz.  This a song from the album called Podnojie (At the Foot of the Mountain):

Next we are heading to the city of Lovech, where guitar maverick Ateshkhan Yuseinov was born.  He made a name for himself with his unique guitar playing style, combining fast Balkan rhythms with jazzy improvisations.  Here is a track from his 2019 album Strange Suit, where he collaborates with beat box world champion SkilleR aka Alexander Deyanov from Sofia.  The tune is called Fire Bees in a Box:

Next stop is the town of Belogradchik in north-western Bulgaria, mostly because it is one of the most stunning locations in Bulgaria.  The famous rocks of Belogradchik are an area of 90 square kilometres of red sandstone formations, that have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.  They have even built an impregnatable fortress into the rocks.

Near Belogradchik was also one of my gate crashing events mentioned above.  As we were eating in a country hotel, there was a birthday party going on, which we promptly joined.  As I was suffering from a cold at the time, I was supplied with gallons of hot rakia.  There was also some home-made music to entertain the guests.  Excuse the poor picture and sound quality:

And we'll leave it at that as we are going to the Capital Sofia next.  In the meantime you can follow my virtual ramblings on my Tripline map.
 

Romania - Bucharest

 After skirting around the capital on my last post, we are now heading straight into Bucharest and see what the city has to offer in terms of music.  I visited Bucharest for a couple of days back in 2014, here are a couple of photos from that trip:

View to the parliament building

The old town

One of my first encounters with the Gypsy music of Romania was the 1997 movie Gadjo Dilo (Crazy Stranger in the Romani language).  It's the story of a young, naïve and floppy-haired Frenchman, Stéphane, who travels to Romania looking for a Roma singer called Nora Luca, to whom his father used to listen to all the time before his death.  Armed with a tape recorder he ends up as a guest in a Gypsy village, not speaking any of the language and being viewed with suspicion by its inhabitants.  It then turns out that a young woman in the village called Sabina, played by actress, painter and musician Rona Hartner, speaks French, and after some initial hostility a love affair ensues.  The film deals with the continued prejudice against the Roma community, but also features a lot of Gypsy music performed by village musicians and enthusiastically supported by Rona Hartner.  If you haven't seen the movie I highly recommend it for an insight into Gypsy life and for the music.  Here is a scene from the movie of the song Tutti Frutti, the soundtrack has also been issued as a CD:

Rona Hartner was born in Bucharest in 1979, but sadly died recently after a battle with lung and brain cancer.  Apart from her acting and painting career she also recorded a lot of music, specialising in Gypsy music.  She lived the last couple of decades of her life in France.  Here is a live version of a song from her 2013 album Gypsy Therapy with DJ Tagada called Nationalité Vagabonde, a sentiment I can identify with:

RIP Rona Hartner.

The Shukar Collective are an Ursari Roma band that fuses traditional Gypsy music with electronica.  They produce sounds by tapping spoons and other domestic objects combined with an analogue synthesizer.  Here is a song from their 2005 album Urban Gypsy called Bar Boot:

The Mahala Rai Banda is a Roma brass band founded in 2004 in Bucharest by violinist and composer Aurel Ionita, who is related to several members of Taraf de Haidouks.  They blend traditional wedding music with Balkan Beats.  It makes for great party music.  Here is a song from their 2019 album Ghetto Blasters called Ding Deng Dong.  The album won the Songlines 2009 Best Album Award:

Bucharest band Balkan Taksim combine Balkan Psych with Subterranean bass and low-fi synth electronica, blending old with new and analog with digital.  Here's a song called Anadolka from their 2021 EP Žali Zare:

That wraps up our tour of Romania, next stop is Bulgaria.  In the meantime you can follow my virtual musical travels on my Tripline map.

Romania - Muntenia

 Muntenia, also known as greater Wallachia, is Romania's most populous region, situated in the south of the country, and includes the capital Bucharest.  

We begin our journey in the town of Găești, where pan flute player Gheorghe Zamfir was born 1941.  The pan flute is known as the nai in Romania and it historically was used in Romanian folk music, but had somehow fallen into obscurity until Zamfir was 'discovered' by a Swiss ethnomusicologist in the 1960's.  Zamfir started off playing traditional folk with his own Taraf band, but later went further and further down the commercial route, playing easy-listening type of music, often together with the German big band leader James Last.  Much of his music was used in film and TV advertisements and he managed some international success.  Here is something a bit more traditional from a performance on Romanian TV:

Now I mentioned the word Taraf up there.  A Taraf is the Romanian term for a small folk ensemble consisting of 3-8 lăutari or Romani folk musicians.  The most famous Taraf in Romania is Taraf de Haïdouks, who have been going since at least the 1980's in the village of Clejani, 40km from Bucharest.  Their original name was Taraful Haiducilor, but their French name stuck due to the same Swiss ethnomusicologist and a Belgian record producer who first signed them.  The Gypsy band has gone on to some considerable international success, long before they became known in their home country, recording and giving concerts in Switzerland and France still during the Communist era.  They have since collaborated with many other Balkan bands, most notably with North Macedonia's Koçani Orkestar.  Here is an energetic set from the Tiny Desk meets globalFest 2023 with tunes included on their albums Band of Gypsies and Band of Gypsies 2:

Ion Miu, known as the Godfather of the Cimbalom, was born in the town of Titu in 1955.  He came from a musical family, his father also playing the cimbalom, and married into another musical family.  Unsurprisingly at least 2 of his off-spring also took up the cimbalom.  Here he plays with his son George a tune called Cu Damigeana, which also features on the 2008 compilation album The Rough Guide to the Music of Romanian Gypsies:

Roma violinist and singer Dona Dimitru Siminică was born in the town of Târgoviște in 1926 and died in Bucharest in 1979.  He learned the violin from his father and supplemented his income from working as a builder with his music.  He only released one album during his lifetime shortly before he died of a heart attack, but one of his songs called La Şalul ce negru  is immortalised on the above mentioned compilation album:

Also featuring on the same album is Roma accordionist Marcel Budală, who was born in the town of Câmpina in 1926 and died in 1989.  Here's his song Hora rudărenilor:

Roma singer Gabi Luncă also features on the same album.  She was born in the town of Vărbilău in 1938 and died in 2021.  Apparently she was a favourite of former dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu and his wife.  Here's a song called Pe drumul de la Buzău:

Another artist appearing on this great album is Roma singer Cornelia Catangă, who was born in the town of Zeletin in 1958 and died in 2021 due to Covid.  During her career she toured widely and was often accompanied by her husband.  Here is a song called Doamne, dă-mi putere (God, give me strength):

And finally another artist on the album is Accordionist Ionel Tudorache, who was born in Buzău in 1953 in the town of Buzău and like the previous musicians recorded for the state label of Electrecord.  Here's a live version of his song Pe ulita armeneasca:

That's it from Muntenia for now, next stop is the capital Bucharest.  In the meantime, as usual you can follow my virtual musical journey on my Tripline Map.

Romania - Maramureş & Oltenia

Maramureş is a valley in Northern Romania on the border with Ukraine.  We'll stop here in the small city of  Sighetu Marmaţiei, where singer/songwriter Ducu Bertzi was born in 1955.  He started out with the fiddle at the age of 8, but went on to play the guitar in various rock bands.  He went on to swap his electrical guitar for an acoustic one, singing folk songs, mostly his own compositions and intonations of poems by various writers.  Here is one of his more famous songs called M-am îndrǎgostit numai de ea (I fell in love with her only) from his 2013 album Dor de Duca:

Multi-instrumentalist, multi-media artist and computer scientist Mircea Florian, also known as Florian din Transilvania, was born in the city of Satu Mare in 1949.  Starting off in folk rock he was an early adopter of hippy culture and a experimenter and pioneer of electronic music in the late 1960's.  His music became a blend of Romanian folk with Indian influences and psych rock.  During his career he became increasingly critical of the Ceaucescu regime in Romania and much of his music was censored by the authorities.  In 1986 he defected to West Germany, where he still resides.  Here is an early song of his from his 1971 album Pădure de voie bună called Pădure linistitoare:

Next we are heading to the commune of Podari near Craiova in the Oltenia region of southern Romania.  This is where musician, actor and poet Tudor Gheorghe was born in 1945.  During the Communist times he repeatedly got himself into trouble over his political stance, even getting kicked out of school and later his music being banned by the authorities.  He recorded most of his music live and only accompanied on his guitar or lute.  Later he collaborated with orchestras to give his music a fuller sound.  Here is a short song of his called Doamne la duşmanii mei:

Roma violinist Florea Ciocă (1916-1979) was born in the township of Segarcea in Dolj County of the Oltenia region.  He was in high demand at weddings in his  local area and later rose to national and international prominence and his style is still seen as a benchmark for Gypsy fiddling.  Here is a track which featured on the 2008 compilation The Rough Guide to the Music of Romanian Gypsies called Mierlita cand e bolnava:

That's it for today, next we are exploring the most populous region of Romania, Muntenia.  In the meantime you can follow my virtual musical journey on my Tripline map.