Sunday 28 July 2019

County Clare, Ireland

County Clare in the west of Ireland is famous for the spectacular Cliffs of Moher and the desolate rockscape of the Burren, but above all it is covered from top to bottom in music.  This picture is of a sunset above the Cliffs of Moher on New Year's Eve 1988/9.  Unbelievably it was a beautifully balmy day.


That winter a group of us stayed in a cottage near the village of Doolin, which on my first visit in 1983 was described to me as Ireland's best kept secret.  This then tiny village boasted about 5 pubs, which had live traditional music in them every night.  Alas, it no longer is a secret and has sprouted many B&B's, hostels, hotels, attracting many tourists, but the music and 3 of its pubs still remain.  This is what it looked like in 1988.


East County Clare has its own distinctive style of traditional music. It's marked by sparse use of ornamentation such as crans, rolls and triplets, instead using a less technical ornamentation of double octave playing and the transmission of rhythm through foot tapping.  The concertina is popular here, forcing tunes to be played in C or F rather than the otherwise more popular D tunings.  Foremost amongst the concertina players of East Clare is Mary MacNamara of Clondanagh.  Here's a couple of reels she is performing with Martin Hayes, who also supported her on her 1993 album Traditional Music of East Clare:




Fiddler Martin Hayes was born in 1962 (good vintage, that!) in the parish of Killanena, East Clare to a musical family.  He emigrated to Chicago in 1984, where he became involved in the local Irish trad scene and became a member of the Irish-American supergroup The Gloaming.  He also recorded a couple of solo albums entitled Martin Hayes and Under The Moon.  Here he is playing a set with guitarist Dennis cahill, who was born in Chicago of Kerry parents:





Multi-instrumentalist Sharon Shannon, who was born in Ruan, Co. Clare, already had a couple of mentions on this blog. This tune, Mouth of  the Tobique is from her 1997 album Each Little Thing:



Jimmy Ward was a famous banjo player and composer who was born in Kilfenora and died in 1987 in Milltown Malbay in Co. Clare.  He was part of the Kilfenora Céilí Band.  He became most famous for his tune Jimmy Wards Jig.  This is another of his tunes performed by the Kilfenora Céilí Band Ward's Marches from their 2009 album Century:


Finally we're taking the ferry from Doolin over to Insheer, the smallest of the Arran Islands.  When I went there on a wet and windy November day back in 2002, we stepped off the boat and the rain came down horizontally.  In search for shelter we found that all the pubs on the island were shut.  So we walked into the grocery shop and asked if there was anywhere open where we could find cover from the rain.  So the lady behind the counter shouted out to the back: "Séamus, SÉAMUS!  Could you go and open the pub for these people, please?"  

Later, after a few hot whiskeys the weather cleared and we explored the island some.  When we passed the souvenir shop, it was closed too, but as we idly looked at the wares through the window a lady came rushing across the road and opened the shop for us.  While we were browsing, she put on some music.  It was a beautiful female voice singing in Irish, so we asked who it was, and she proudly proclaimed it was her very own daughter.

That's how I first came across Lasairfhíona and I bought her debut album An Raicín Álainn, which had only just been released, there and then.  This is a song from that album about her home island, Inis Oirr, In Innis Oirr, with some pictures I shot on that memorable trip.


This is it for today from County Clare.  The next few counties, I think we are going to speed up a bit.  As usual you can follow my virtual journey on tripline.

Thursday 18 July 2019

County Limerick, Ireland

There once was a man called Rick
He came from the town of Limerick
He wanted to write
Poems of shite
But instead played some nice music



So much for my poetry...  I'll stick to music will I?  It's in fact not entirely certain that Limericks came from Limerick. Moving on, 6-member, all female band Líadan describe their origins as from Limerick and Galway.  They formed in 2004 and churn out beautifully crafted traditional tunes and songs in both Irish and English.  Here is a set of polkas by them (in my opinion there aren't enough polkas around) that are collectively known as Limerick Polkas and can be found on their album Casadh na Taoide / Turning the Tide:



And talking about polkas they are particularly popular in the Sliabh Luachra (Anglicised Slieve Logher), which is an upland area bordering counties Limerick, Kerry and Cork.  The members of the trio Sliabh Notes hail one each from these 3 counties and here is a set of polkas by them, which can be found on their 2005 album Gleanntan:



Four Men and a Dog were founded in Limerick in 1990, but the band members hail from Tyrone, Tipperary, Donegal and Dónal Murphy who was born in Birmingham, but grew up in Limerick.  They play traditional Irish music, but often combined with rock, jazz, blues, bluegrass, swing, salsa and even rap.   There's a bit of rap and bluegrass on this number, Wrap It Up from their 1991 album Barking Mad:


As usual you can follow my virtual journey on this link.  Next stop County Clare.


Tuesday 16 July 2019

County Kerry, Ireland

We arrive in the very southwest of Ireland in the spectacularly beautiful county of Kerry, famed for the Ring of Kerry, the Skellig Rocks and the Dingle Peninsula.  I spent a couple of weeks down there a couple of years ago.  This was the view from our accommodation:


Whilst the members of the band Beoga hail from Antrim, Derry and Limerick, they did form up as a group at the All-Ireland Fleadh in County Kerry in 2002. Their influences combine traditional with more contemporary sounds with unorthodox instrumentation (piano and 2 accordions) , and in fact they recently sold out to pop as they combined with the abominable Ed Sheeran.    However they do churn out some pleasant and lively tunes such as this one, Eochaid, which apparently means escaped from their 2016 album Before We Change Our Mind:



We move on to the beautiful Dingle Peninsula, where Irish is still spoken as the first language.  Here a shot of Dingle harbour:



Here we meet Muireann Nic Amhlaoibh, who used to be the lead singer of Danú, whom we met in County Waterford.  She was born near the tip of Dingle and grew up between here and County Clare speaking Irish. Here is a song from her 2017 album Foxglove & Fuschia entitled Bean Dubh A' Ghleanna, which roughly translates as black woman of the glen I believe.



Also from Dingle is Pauline Scanlon who has been collaborating extensively with Sharon Shannon of Co. Clare.  She also blends contemporary sounds with traditional Irish music.  This song is from her 2004 solo debut album Red Colour Sun and is entitled What Put The Blood, a story of a tragic infanticide.



Pauline Scanlon is also part of the duo Lumiere together with Éllís Kennedy, also from Dingle.  This haunting song is from their self-titled 2010 debut album, entitled Ca Rabhais Ar Feadh an Lae Uaim.  Not sure what the song is about.



That's it for today.  Remember you can follow my virtual trip on tripline.  Next stop Limerick.