Next we are heading into Azerbaijan. They gained independence from the former Soviet Unionin 1991 and have become rich due to large oil reserves. It recently tried to greenwash its image by hosting the COP climate conference. Culturally it has a rich history, particular its music, which is related to the music of neighbouring Iran. There are 3 main styles of music prevalent: 1) Meykhana, which is sometimes referred to as Azeri Rap or Wedding Rap, 2) the Ashiq tradition of travelling bards singing semi-improvised ballads accompanied by the saz, or simply solo instrumentals on the saz, which he have already become acquainted with in our last post in Georgia, and finally and most importantly 3) Mugham, combining classical poetry with musical improvisations often accompanied on the tar, another middle eastern lute.
Crossing from Georgia into the northwest of the country, our first stop is in the Kazakh District (Qazax rayonu), where Ashiq bard Edalat Nazibov was born in 1939. He died in 2017 and I don't know much else about him. Here is a song from his 2003 album Azerbaidjan - The Art of Saz called Gerayli:
Next we are heading into the Shamakhi district and the village of Nabur. This is where one of the most famous Mugham singers Alim Qasimov was born in 1957. Growing up on a Soviet farm cooperative he had the calling to become a musician early on and his parents supported him through his studies. He is now compared to the famous Qawali singer Nusrat Ali Khan, has collaborated with the likes of Jeff Buckley and Yoyo Ma's Silk Road Ensemble. Icelandic singer Bjork lists him as her favourite singer. Alim's daughter Farghana Qasimova (born in 1979) is also an accomplished Mugham singer and has accompanied her father on tour since she was 16 years old and recorded some music together with him. Here they are singing as a duo at the Osnabruck Morgenland Festival. More of their music can be heard on their joint 2007 album Music of Central Asia Vol. 6 - Spiritual Music of Azerbaijan.
Next we're heading for to the city of Sumgait near the Caspian Sea, which is where folk musician Alihan Samidov was born in 1964. He specialises is wind instruments, specifically the balaban, oboe, clarinet, zurna and saxophone. Here is the opening track from his 2021 album Batman konseri-2 called Sen Gelmez oldrun:
We'll leave it at that for today, next stop is the capital Baku. Meanwhile you follow my virtual journey on my Tripline Map.
The largest ethnic minority in Georgia are the Azeris, who make up 6% of the population and are largely concentrated around the Kvemo Kartli region around the city of Rustavi just south of Tbilisi. Their language and musical traditions are closer to those of Turkey and Iran with the saz (a long-necked lute) a popular instrument played by Aşiq bards travelling the region. Nargilə
Mehtiyeva aka Aşiq
Nargilə is the only female bard plying her trade there, although she was born in Tbilisi. Some of her music has been published as an album called Yurt Yeri in 2023 from a rare live performance in the UK. Here is a live performance of hers on Georgian TV:
The Polyphonic choir Ensemble Rustavi has been going since 1968, playing more traditional Georgian folk. Here is a song called Ni Gikvars Qalav, which features on their 2016 self-titled album:
Singer and poet Teona Qusiashvili was born in 1984 in Sioni in the Pshav-Khevsureti region of Eastern Georgia. She specialised in the folk songs of her region. Sadly she was killed alongside her 2 sons and sister, plus 3 others in a tragic car accident in 2010 aged only 26, as their car plunged into an icy river on the mountainous roads of her home region. Her poet husband Gela Daiauri survived the accident. Here is a song of hers:
The ensemble Zedashe was formed in the mid-1990's in the town of Sighnaghi in the Caucasus Mountains and is one of the few mixed male and female polyphonic choirs in Georgia. They have produced a lot of material including polyphonic chants, folk songs as well as instrumental dance tunes. Here is a song from their 2020 album Enduring Fortress called Tamar Kalo sung at the Khornabudji Fortress:
Finally we are heading to the village of Anaga, where 'the voice of Georgia' Hamlet Gonashvili was born in 1928. He also died prematurely in 1985 falling from an apple tree. Way to go! He was considered one of the best interpreters of songs from the Kartli and Kakheti regions. Here is a song from his 1995 posthumous album Hamlet called Tsintskaro:
That's it from Georgia, next stop is Azerbaijan. As usual, you can follow my virtual journey on my Tripline Map.
Continuing our exploration of the music of Tbilisi, we are including some more contemporary sounds. Jazz fusion band The Shin was actually founded in Stuttgart, Germany in 1998, but by Georgian exiles. They combine jazz with funk, flamenco and a distinct Georgian flavour with some polyphonic singing. Their name actually translates as home or going home rather than having anything to do with the lower part of the leg. Here is a live version of a track from their 2006 album EgAri called Chips on the Water:
Singer/songwriter and producer Tamada combines Georgian folk with electronic dance music in a rather unusual blend. His real name is Lasha Chapel, but his pseudonym apparently is the name for a Georgian table host or toast master. He is originally from Tbilisi, but is based in Berlin these days. Here is a song from his 2024 album 9 Deadly Sins For Tamada called Jinit.
Georgian American singer and guitarist Ilusha Tsinadze was born in Georgia, but emigrated to the USA when he was 8 years old. Now based in Brooklyn, he combines Georgian folk with American folk idioms, singing in Georgian and accompanying himself on an acoustic guitar and occasionally banjo. Here is the opening track to his 2019 album Yes & No called Shenma Survilma Damlia:
Folk rock group Mgzavebri we founded in Tbilisi in 2006 by actor Gigi Dedalamazishvili, combining Georgian folk infused with contemporary rock. After a number of line-up changes the current band consists of 7 members. Although singing mostly in Georgian, but also in Russian and Ukrainian, they were particularly popular in Russia, but since Russia's invasion of Ukraine they have cancelled all concerts there. The name of the band means Travellers. Here's a song from their 2023 album Kamara called Waltz, which they used to accompany a short film on the loss of a loved one:
That's it from Tbilisi for today, next we are going to listen to the music of southern Georgia. In the meantime you can follow my virtual journey on my Tripline map.
Georgia is a small country in Eastern Europe with a long history. It is known as the cradle of wine-making, which automatically makes it a bucket list country for me, but so far I haven't made it there yet. There are fewer than 4 million people living here. Its musical traditions are ancient and are known for the early development of polyphony, which has been declared an intangible cultural heritage of humanity by UNESCO.
From our last stop in Turkey, we carry on along the Black Sea shore, before entering Georgia and taking a right turn into the mountains to the region of Svanetia and its capital Mestia. in this remote region, cut off by snow for much of the year, the Riho Ensemble of Mestia strut their stuff. As far as I know, they haven't recorded any albums that are available internationally, but there is a 2003 DVD called Riho de Mestia - The Polyphonies of Svanetia, which is still available. Here is a song and dance performance by them called Shishada gergili:
Just outside Mestia is the small village of Lakhushdi, which calls itself the singing village due to the fact that 11 out of the 17 families sing traditional polyphonies. So in 2020 3 of the younger inhabitants got together to record an album, namely Ana & Madona Chamgeliani and Levan Bitarovi. They appropriately called the album from The Singing Village (Lakhushdi) and here is an extended extract from it and other singing whilst showing of some village life in the Svanetian mountains. Incidentally, there seems to be an eco-lodge in the village if you ever feel inclined to get the authentic experience in person.
Some years ago a video went viral of 3 young girls singing in polyphonics accompanied by a pandura (a 3-stringed lute) while walking through a Georgian village scene filming themselves with a selfie-stick. These girls were the Trio Mandili, who have now become internationally famous, regularly touring around the world and even representing Georgia at the Eurovision Song Contest. The 3 members are actually from different parts of Georgia, but are now based in the capital Tbilisi. Their enthusiasm is infectious and their harmonies impeccable. Here is the video that launched their career called Apareka, which is also the opening track to their 2015 debut album With Love:
And here is another cute wee video of them featuring a wee donkey:
Composer, singer and pianist Russudan Meipariani was born in Tbilisi in 1975. Classically trained she combines classical music with minimal music and Georgian polyphonic singing. She is now based in Germany. In 2024 she collaborated with Tbilisi based male choir Ensemble Anchiskhati to produce an album called Voices & Mountains and this is a track from the album called Aragvi:
In the year 2000 another all-male choir was founded in Tbilisi called the Basiani Ensemble. They have since been elevated to State Ensemble and perform all over Georgia and internationally bringing traditional Georgian polyphonics to the world. Here is a live performance of a traditional table song called Chakrulo from their snappily titled 2019 Year Album - Booklet, which unsurprisingly came out in 2019. Spoiler alert: you don't get a booklet if you purchase the album...
All female ensemble Ialoni were established in Tbilisi in 2016. Their repertoire includes ecclesiastical, folk and city music from Georgia. Here is a potpourri of city songs from their 2016 album From Sunrise to Sunset:
Finally, another male polyphonic choir, IBERI was founded in 2012 in Tbilisi. The title of their 2022 album Supra translates as feast, which is an activity the Georgians seem to be very fond of. Apparently, if you buy the CD version it comes with a Georgian cookbook! Here is an orchestral version of a song from the album called Harira (The Person):
That's it for today, next we'll be exploring the more contemporary sounds of Tbilisi, as well as music from the rest of the country. Meanwhile, as usual, you can follow my virtual ramblings on my Tripline map.
Heading east out of Ankara we head to the town of Şarkışla, where on of Turkey's most famous folk poets Âşık Veysel was born in 1894. He lived there all his life and died in 1973. Also born in this town was in 1945 was singer and actress Emel Sayın, although she subsequently moved around the country quite a bit. She sings classical Turkish music, later also incorporating film music and acting in her career. Here's a song called Yağdır Mevlam Su, which features on her 2007 album Sizlerle (Sevgisiz Yaşayamam):
Moving north to the coastal city of Samsun on the Black Sea coast, where we meet baglama virtuoso, composer and singer Orcan Gencebay who was born in 1944. He is of Crimean Tartar descent and was named State Artist of Turkey in 1998. He combines Arabesque music with more contemporary elements, including pop, folk and rock. Here is the title track from his 2024 album Hatasiz Kul Olmaz with some helpful German subtitles:
We haven't had any Anatolian rock for a while, so next we are heading to the Black Sea city of Trabzon, where 1970's Anatolian rock band 3 Hür-El hail from. Founded in 1970 by the three 3 Hürel brothers with Feridun on a double-necked electric guitar and saz. They became one of the most popular Psychedelic rock bands in Turkey at the time. In 1977 they disbanded as 2 of the brothers were called into military service and at the same time losing their mother to a tragic road accident. They briefly reformed in the late 1990's and recorded about 4 albums during their 2 stints. Some of their material is now being re-released by German label Turkish vinyl, such as their self-titled 1972 album. Here is a live performance of their song Sevenler Ağlarmış during their peak in 1974.
As we carry on following the coastal road eastwards we come to the town of Çayeli, where folk singer Ayşenur Kolivar was born in 1976. She has been part of the Istanbul ensembleKardeş Türküler and other bands, but also has a successful solo career. She specialises on the folk traditions of the eastern Black Sea region. Here is a song from her 2011 album Bahceye Hanimeli called Getma:
The traditional music of Turkey's Black Sea region is different from the rest of the country and shares more resemblances with some Bulgarian mountain music, including the use of the bagpipe or tulum as the local version is known as. So we take a short hop and a skip to the village of Kestanelik, where tulum player Emin
Yağci was born in 1965. Sadly he died of cancer last year. He is recognised as one of the masters of the instrument and here is a track from his 2011 album Tulum (A Sound from the Black Sea) called Ey Gidi Karlı Dağlar:
That's it from Turkey for the moment, next we are going on a 3 country excursion of Georgia, Azerbaijan and Armenia before returning to finish of the south-eastern part of Turkey. In the meantime you can follow my virtual musical road trip on my tripline map.
Amkara Castle. Photo credit: By Bernard Gagnon - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37705866
We arrive in Ankara, the capital city of Türkiye in the geographical centre of the country. It is only the second largest city after Istanbul with 5.1 million inhabitants.
This is where musician and composer Erkan Oğur was born in 1954. He is a pioneer of the fretless classical guitar, which he invented in 1976 to obtain more detailed notes for traditional Turkish music. He is also a master on other string instruments such as the baglama and oud. He has collaborated widely with musicians in Turkey and even blues musicians in the USA and is still active to this day. Here is a song he plays with Derya Türka called Zahit Bizi Tan Eyleme, which he recorded with İsmail Hakkı Demircioğlu on their 2000 album Anadolu Beşik:
Oud player and teacher Gülçin
Yahya Kaçar was born in Ankara in 1966 to a family originating in Greece, which was part of the great population exchange. Her family discovered her musical talent early on and she went on to study music and the oud at university, specialising in Classical Turkish music. She is mainly teaching the instrument these days and has written books on it, rather than being a major recording artist. But here is her latest single called Gülizâr Sirto:
I don't know where or when singer and pianist Süeda Çatakoğlu was born, but she now resides in Boston, where she is developing her skills in jazz composition, jazz piano and contemporary writing and production at Berklee College of Music. She combines the jazz elements with Turkish folk as on her 2022 album Süeda Sings Sezen, where she interprets some songs from the legendary Sezen Aksu, which I mentioned in my last post. She is accompanied by a host of international guests on the album and here is a song from the album called El Gibi:
Finally we are making a song and dance for folk music group the Radio Ankara Music Ensemble. Don't know much about them, except what it says on the tin, and that they are performing traditional folk music from various regions of the country. Here is a song from their 1996 album Songs and Dances of Turkey called Folk Song from Adiyaman:
That's it from Ankara, next we are heading to the northeast of the country and the Black Sea coast. Until then you can check out my virtual travels on my Tripline map.
Next on our virtual trip through Türkiye, we're heading to the southwestern city of Muğla, where singer / songwriter Selda Bağcan was born in 1948. She was born into a musical family and started playing the mandolin at the age of 5, later picking up the guitar and baglama. She went to university in Ankara, she became interested in Turkish folk, influenced by the likes of Cem Karaca,Barış Manço and Fikret Kızılok. Like her influences, she often incorporated elements of rock and psychedelia into her music. She met many of her idols in a music club her brothers ran in Ankara, and performed there herself. Her often critical lyrics got her into trouble with the authorities many times, but made her a darling of the political left. Here is a song called Ağlama Anne, which features on her 2014 40th year anniversary album 40 Yılın 40 Şarkısı:
Singer / songwriter Sezen Aksu was born in the municipality of Sarayköy in the Denizli province of western Turkey in 1954. She is one of the most successful Turkish singers, having sold more than 40 million albums and written more than 500 songs, and has been dubbed 'Queen of Turkish Pop'. Her songs are very much influenced by Anatolian folk and are generally upbeat and positive, although she has never been shy to speak up for minorities and the disadvantaged and has helped fundraise for disaster relief such as the 1990 earthquake. Here is a song called Ihanetten Geri Kalan (Remnants of Betrayal), which features on her 2017 album Biraz Pop Biraz Sezen:
Singer Dilek Koç was born on Antalya on the south coast of Turkey. She sings both in Turkish and Greek, incorporating folk influences from both traditions, and in fact lives in Greece these days. Here is a song from her 2020 album Songs of Cappadocia called Kaleden Kaleye:
Folk singer Feryal Öney was born in Akşehir in the Middle Anatolia region in 1970. In 1987 she relocated to Istanbul, where she studied music and founded Kardeş Türküler (Songs of Fraternity). Later she began recording solo albums singing folk songs of her home region, with a modern electrified twist. Here is a live version of a song from her 2006 album Bulutlar Geçer (Clouds Pass By) called Irak Olduk:
Turkish folk singer Ramazan Kubat, better known as just Kubat, was actually born in Belgium in 1974, but to a family of poets and musicians from the town of Emirdağ in Afyonkarahisar province in central Turkey. Now based back in Turkey, he combines Anatolian folk with electronic instrumentation. Here is his latest single called Arabaşı:
That's it for this leg, next we're heading into Ankara itself. In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual ramblings on my Tripline map.
As we are heading out of Istanbul we stop in the eastern neighbourhood of Kadıköy, where actress and pop singer GülbenErgen was born in 1972. Apparently she is hugely popular in Türkiye and her albums have sold in the millions. Here is her just released single called Nanik:
During the height of his career, clarinettist Mustafa
Kandıralı (1930-2010) was known as the sound of the holidays as he hosted a morning show on the radio. As a 13 year old he ran away from his hometown of Kandıra, 150km on foot, to Istanbul. He dabbled in many different Anatolian genres, as well as making it internationally in the jazz world, even playing with Louis Armstrong once. Here is just a bit of a flavour of the man, playing an Anatolian dance tune called Bahriye Çiftetellisi:
Next we are heading south along the west coast of Turkey to Bursa. This is where composer, ney and bendir player Mercan Dede aka DJ Arkin Allen was born in 1966. Born as Arkın Ilıcalı, he now lives in Canada producing a fusion of traditional acoustic Turkish and other oriental styles with electronic sounds. He is also heavily influenced by Sufism and much of his music has a hypnotic quality. He has accumulated many international awards, including best World Music Album by Womex for his 2007 album 800. Here is a song from that album called Istanbul:
Composer and multi-instrumentalist Özgür Çelik was born in 1979 in the city of Uşak in the interior part of the Aegean region. He was born into a family of artisan instrument makers and learned to play the instruments his father made, such as the baglama, the kabak kemane and others, from an early age. He is now a lecturer at the Aegean University. On his 2012 solo album Öznağme he showcases many of the different instruments he plays.
Next we are heading to the Aegean coast to the city of Bergama, where Roma clarinettist Hüsnü Şenlendirici was born in 1976. He comes from a long line of musicians with his father and grandfather both playing clarinet and trumpet. He is now considered one of the foremost proponents of the Turkish clarinet. On his 2010 album Ege'nin iki yani (Both sides of the Aegean) he combines with Greek Trio Chi for a meeting of cultures across the sea. Here's a song from this album called Gel Gel Kayikci (Come, come boatman):
Hüsnü
Şenlendirici is also part of Izmir based Roma funk band Laço
Tayfa. This 8-piece ensemble combine Anatolian rhythms with contemporary funk and even reggae sounds. Here is a tune from their 2002 album Hicaz Dolap called Atmaca:
That's it for today. As usual you follow my virtual travels on my Tripline map.
Continuing in the metropolis that is Istanbul we next encounter the Taksim Trio. The term Taksim apparently means improvisation. The 3 members are each masters of their instruments, namely the clarinet played by Hüsnü
Şenlendirici, Ismail Tunçbilek on the baglama and Aytaç Doğan on the qanun. There music is a blend of avant-garde jazz and Arabesque and exudes a beautifully atmospheric sound. Here's a tune from their 2007 self-titled album called Gözüm:
Folk singer Çiğdem Aslan was born in Istanbul in 1980 to a Kurdish-Alevi background. She sings in a variety of languages and styles including Rebetika, but also folk styles from various parts of Anatolia and Sephardic music. She is known for her rich, earthy voice. Here is a song from her 2016 album A Thousand Cranes called Tourna:
The DEM Trio is a group of musicians highlighting the sounds of the bağlama and tambur string instruments and the mixed cultural heritage of the city of Istanbul. Occasionally they record as a an extended group, the DEM Ensemble as on their 2013 album Erguvan, named after a small pink flower symbolising Istanbul. Here is a tune from that album, performed as a trio only, called Sabahın seherinde ötüyor kuşlar (Birds are singing in the morning):
Also drawing on the Rebetiko or Rembetiko tradition is the orchestra Café Aman Istanbul, who were founded in 2009. They are reviving the spirit of the Café Aman taverns that were a symbol of the melting-pot culture of the Ottoman Empire of a century ago. Here is a song from their 2012 album Fasl-ı Rembetiko called Apo To Vradi Os To Proi:
We already came across percussionist Burhan Öçal in Thrace playing with the Thracian Allstars. Before that he led the Istanbul Oriental Ensemble. Here is the opening track from their 1998 album Sultan's Secret Door called Mahur Oriental:
Indie folk band Zeyn'el draw their inspiration from the Anatolian troubadors of the 14th to 16th century, giving them a modern twist and touch upon their relevance to today, talking about prejudice and injustice. Here is the opening song from their 2013 album Divan & Divine called Elâ gözlü pirim geldi with some nice scenery from Istanbul:
The Kolektif Istanbul focus on the musical cross between Anatolian cultures, Balkan wedding music, Jazz and funk. With traditional string instruments and a fair peppering of brass they kick up quite a storm. Here is the opening track from their 2008 album Krivoto called Makedonsko:
That's it from Istanbul for now, even though there are many more artists I could mention. Next we are travelling down the west coast of Turkey, in the meantime you follow my virtual ramblings on my Tripline map.
We continue our exploration of Istanbul with one of the pioneers of Anatolian Rock, the band Moğollar (The Mongols). They started of in 1968 blending Turkish folk with western rock and psychedelia. They quickly gained a big following internationally and drew comparison with Pink Floyd. For a while Cem Karaca was a member as soloist. They disbanded in 1976, but reformed in 1993 and are still going to this day. With the recent revival in Anatolian rock, some of their albums have recently been reissued, such as their 1976 self-titled album. Here's the opening track called Katip Arzuhalim Yaz Yare Böyle:
Carrying the torch of modern Anatolian psych rock with a real vintage feel is Istanbul native Umut Adan. Now based in Italy, some of his songs contain criticism of his homeland. He has only had one international release so far his 2019 album Bahar (Spring). Here is a track from it called Şeytanın Aklını Çeldim:
The A.G.A Trio a Trans-caucasian/Anatolian collaboration between 3 musicians from Armenia, Georgia and Turkey (the name standing for Anatolia, Georgia, Armenia), the Turkish contribution being from Deniz Mahir Kartal, a kaval player from Istanbul. The other two are Mikhail Yakut from Turkey, but of Georgian descent on accordion and Armenian Arsen Petrosyan on duduk. They play on the similarities of their respective regions, whilst inventing their own soundscape. In this tune from their 2024 album Araxes (named after a river in the Caucasus) they play a dance tune common in all 3 regions, but under different names: Shalakho / Kintauri / Karabağ:
Derya Türkan, born in Istabul in 1973, is a master of the classical Turkish kemençe, a 3-stringed bowed fiddle played upright on the knee. There are various versions of the instrument throughout the region, including in Greece where it is known as the politiki lyra. He has collaborated with many different acts, including Greek lyra player Sokratis Sinopoulos, exploring the similarities of their cultures. They released an album in 2020 called Soundplaces, in which they take listeners on a journey through different places between Greece and Turkey, which have a shared history. Sadly none of the tunes from the album are available on YouTube, so here is another tune of theirs from their 2001 album Letters from Istanbul called Uşşak Şarkı:
Kardeş Türküler are a large folk band founded in 1993 at Boğaziçi University in Istanbul. They incorporate influences from all over the region including Turkish, Kurdish, Armenian and Alevian. Here's a song from their 2017 album Yol called Halâlê:
Another kemençe player from Istanbul is young Melisa Yildirim. She grew up in a family from the Alevi branch of Islam. She collaborates with a wide variety of musicians from around the world, influenced by Sufi music, Anatolian folk as well as Iranian genres and contemporary music. One of her collaborations is with Israeli guitarist Gilad Weiss, with whom she recorded their 2021 album Talûş (Link: null). This tune, Seven Lakes, does not feature on the album, but gives a flavour of their beautifully relaxing style:
We'll leave it at that for today. As usual you can follow my virtual travels on my Tripline map.
We arrive in the largest city in Turkey, in fact the largest city in Europe, Istanbul. It's a bustling melting pot between east and west straddling the Bosporus Straight, which separates Europe from Asia. Whilst not being the capital of Turkey, it is the economic and cultural powerhouse of the country and home to 19% of the population, so we'll be spending a bit longer here.
Let's arrive early in the morning before it gets too busy and not too hot and ease ourselves into the city with something calming and meditative and maybe not so typical. Duduk player Canberk Ulaş was born in Istanbul, but now resides in Sweden. He plays and teaches the Armenian duduk, a double reed woodwind instrument. He draws on Armenian and Anatolian influences with a modern electronic twists and looping. The results are a kind of reflective meditation. He has just released his new album Echoes of Becoming and this is a tune from it called Greetings to Istanbul, accompanied on piano:
After breakfast we'll maybe wander down Independence Avenue (İstiklal Caddesi) in the Beyoğlu district and catch a few buskers plying their trade, like these guys here:
They are international ethno-folk ensemble Light in Babylon. They formed in 2010, when Israeli/Iranian singer Michal Elia Kamal and French guitarist Julien Demarque bumped into each other and went in search for a santur player (A type of hammered dulcimer), whom they found in Istanbul in the form of Metehan Çiftçi. Initially the 3 had difficulty communicating as they didn't speak each others languages, but musically they hit it off. So, inspired by the Biblical story of the Tower of Babylon they came up with their name. Initially they just hit the Istanbul busking scene, but they have since added a couple more members to the band, recorded some albums and tour internationally. Here is a song from their 2022 album On Our Way called Sal Sal:
Psych folk band Baba Zula got together in 1996, and with some personnel changes, are still going strong. They combine traditional Turkish sounds around the saz (a bouzouki-like string instrument) with electronic overdubs and reggae-like rhythms. Here's a particularly psychedelic number called Transendance from their 2019 album Derin Derin:
Singer Gaye Si Akyol was born in Istanbul in 1985. She has had some considerable international success with her version of Turkish psychedelia and Anatolian rock, winning the Best Artist award in Songlines Magazine in 2019. Like others in the genre, she combines guitar, bass and drums with traditional Turkish instruments such as oud, electro baglama and cümbüş. She also champions various political causes, such as LGBTQ+ rights, performing in flamboyant outfits, and she is also an accomplished painter. Here's a stripped down version of a song called Vurgunum Ama Acelesi Yok (I'm keen, but there's no rush) from her 2022 album Anadolu Ejderi:
Lalalar are a three-man psych-rock band from Istanbul, who are relatively new on the scene, with a sound, according to their own words, like a dumpster dive of spaghetti-western psychedelics, Anatolian funk, sampling and hazy electronics. Their songs are real dancefloor fillers. Here is a song called Göt from their 2023 album En Kötü Iyi Olur:
Tolga Boyuk is the creative force behind electro acoustic trio Islandman, based in Istanbul They blend Anatolian rock with electronica, Afrobeat sounds and shamanic rhythms to produce music for the dance floor. Here's the opening track to their 2020 album Kaybola called Dimitro:
I think that should do for this post, more music from Istanbul next time. In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual travels on my Tripline Map
After Bulgaria we now arrive in Turkey or the official name the Republic of Türkiye. I have never been to Turkey as of yet, so have only the usual stereotypes to offer: the gateway to Asia, the country of whirling Dervishes, oriental bazaars, Turkish delight and kebabs. Whilst I have never been, it's probably the first culture different from mine that I had encountered as a kid growing up in Germany, which has a large Turkish diaspora. One day I'll go for myself to see, in the meantime I'll just travel in mind through the medium of music.
We start our virtual journey in East Thrace, the European part of Turkey, which has been a region of conflict between the Ottomans, Bulgarians and Byzantines over the centuries. Our first stop is the small city of Kirklareli, where qanun player and composer Göksel Baktagir was born in 1966. The qanun is a zither-like string instrument that is commonly played solo or as part of an ensemble throughout the Middle East. Here's a short piece from his 2008 album Hayal Gibi 3 (Like a Dream), called Huzur, with some dramatic landscape shots:
Also from Kirklareli is master percussionist and multi-instrumentalist Burhan Öçal. Living on the crossroads between the Balkans and Turkey, he has incorporated both influences into his music together gathering a band of Gypsy musicians from various corners of East Thrace and called them the Trakya Allstars. It is based around the regionally typical instruments of the zurna, a reed instrument similar to the oboe and the davul, a local drum. He added some Balkan Gypsy brass into the mix, which is rather unusual in Turkish music. Here's a song from their 2003 album Kirklareli Il Siniri called Karakaş Mahallesi:
Singer/songwriter Candan Erçetin was born in 1963 a bit south in the city of Lüleburgaz. She is mostly known for her pop music, but as she is of Macedonian descent, she mixes in Balkan elements into her music, singing in Turkish, French and Greek. She represented Turkey at the 1986 Eurovision Song Contest, but appears by all accounts a well balanced person with multiple interests. Here is a song from her 1999 album Elbette called Annem:
Singer Hatice Yıldız Levent, better known by her stage name of Muazzaez Ersoy was born in 1958 in the town of Uzunköprü. She sings classic Turkish / Arabesque songs giving her the nickname of Nostalgia Queen in Turkey. Here's a song from her 2016 album Özel Koleksiyon 2 called Dumanlı Dumanlı:
Roma clarinettist Selim Sesler was born in 1957 in the town of Keşan near Edirne, but sadly died of heart disease in 2014. He came from a long line of professional musicians who originated from Greece, but were moved in 1923 in the population exchange between the 2 countries. He was performing at Gypsy weddings from the age of 14, but his fame originally started outside his native country, touring internationally with Canadian musician Brenna MacKimmon. Here is a song from his 2006 album Oğlan Bizim Kız Bizim (Anatolian Wedding) called Şu Köyceğiz Yolları:
Cem Karaca (1945- 2004) was born in Bakırköy on the European side of Istanbul province. He was a leading influence in the Anatolian Rock scene, being a member of numerous bands during the 70's, as well as recording under his own name. During a time of great political turbulence, he was accused of inciting a revolution with his song lyrics by the government. As a result he went into exile in West Germany, where he stayed until 1987, when an amnesty was given to him. Anatolian rock and psychedelia have had a bit of a renaissance in recent years and many of Karaca's recordings have been re-released, such as the 2023 compilation by German based label Anadolu. Here is song featured on this album called Tamirci Çıragı, about a humble car mechanic falling in love with a client, but being told to accept his working class status by his boss.
That's it from the European side of Turkey, next we are heading into the bustling metropolis that is Istanbul, where we'll spending some time. In the meantime you can follow my virtual journey on my Tripline map.
Now, unlike Sofia, I really did like Bulgaria's second city Plovdiv. It has an ancient history with Roman ruins visible in various parts of the city and is reputedly one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe dating back some 7000 years. It now has a vibrant student scene, famed for great food and a lively nightlife. On one occasion we were eating in a restaurant when we were unexpectedly treated to this dance performance:
Singer and choir master Eugenia Georgieva is a native of Plovdiv, but now resides in London, where she leads a Bulgarian choir at University College London. She performs both solo as well as part of various ensembles, delving mostly into traditional material from the Rila Mountains, but also dabbling with electronic music. Here is a track from her 2018 solo album Po Drum Mome / A Girl on the Road called Brayne le Ivane / Hey, Brother Ivan:
One of the ensembles Eugenia is part of is the Perunika Trio, a traditional a'capella group together with Victoria Evstatieva and Victoria Mancheva. Here is a short song called Pripade temna mugla from their 2008 debut album Introducing Perunika Trio:
Singer Neli Andreeva was born in the town of Asenovgrad, but grew up in the Rhodope Mountains, where she began singing traditional songs from an early age with her grandmother. She is also choir master of the Philip Kutev Folklore Ensemble, more of which below. Here is a song called Da Znaesh Maicho featuring her as lead singer together with the Nusha Choir and Croatian pianist Zvjezdan Ružić, which features on their 2023 album Dandelion:
Folk singer Valya Balkanska, born 1942 in Arda in the southern Rhodope Mountains near the Greek border, has literally achieved interstellar fame. Her song Iziel ye Delyo Haydutin was included on a music recording that was on the NASA spacecrafts Voyager I and II that were launched in 1977 to explore space beyond our solar system. I wonder what aliens made of this, but it it is indeed a beautiful piece of music which was originally recorded on vinyl in 1968. Here is the song:
Clarinet player and band leader Ivo Papazov was born in Kardzhali in the eastern Rhodpe Mountains. He started playing in public from the age of 12 at Gypsy weddings and later founded his own wedding band, pioneering the style of Balkan Gypsy wedding music fusing Balkan music with elements of funk, rock and jazz, often played at breakneck speed. He collected numerous awards including the BBC Radio 3 World Music Award in 2005. Try out his 2007 Best of album for some more, but here is an historic live performance on Nightmusic. Try not to wriggle around manically...
Next we are heading north into the Rose Valley, which provides a large percentage of the worlds rose oil. During our time in Bulgaria we based ourselves in the small village of Rozovets.
For much of the year it's a quiet place, but at the end of the summer everybody who has moved away over the years comes back for a grand summer party with plenty of food, music, dancing and fireworks. The band starts playing around 5 pm and goes on non-stop - and I mean non-stop, no breaks between songs or tunes, just individual musicians having a wee break now and then - until 1 am. Here's a wee flavour of it all:
Composer and arranger Filip Kutev (or Philip Koutev) was born in Aytos near the Black Sea coast in 1903 and died in 1982, but his name lives on in the Bulgarian National Folklore Ensemble Philip Kutev, which he founded together with his wife Maria in 1951. The ensemble was the first to bring traditional Bulgarian music onto the stage and to a wider audience. It is now led by his daughter Elena Kuteva. Below a sampler of their varied activities. For more check out their 2006 self-titled album.
That's it from Bulgaria, next we are heading to Turkey. In the meantime, as usual, you can follow my virtual travels on my Tripline map.
